Paris-based Israeli designer Hed Mayner is one of the most exciting brands on the Paris Fashion Week calendar— in my humble opinion. Though his garments can be challenging to procure from stores outside of Asia, his lavish runways and lookbooks are pure aspirational eye candy. Expertly styled by Encens Magazine founder and former Nehera creative director Samuel Drira, Mayner’s exaggerated silhouettes are informed by gargantuan shirts and floor-scraping trousers, all cut from richly textured cloths in enormous scale.
The appeal doesn’t come from imagining oneself wearing the runway looks, necessarily, but from the sheer joy found in how Mayner gleefully explodes convention. SS22, “Nomadland,” continues this garment experimentation, further blowing up menswear tropes (suits, shirting) and militaria (cargo vests and pants) with artful aplomb. Rendered in lush linen, woven cotton, and crisp broadcloth, the garments are elevated yet recognizable — as recognizable as knee-length blazers and elbow obscuring sweater tees can be, that is.
An earthy palette grounds (pun intended?) the billowing items in versatile tones, letting the dramatic cuts speak for themselves. Mayner has some clever tricks up his (generous) sleeves, as well, stripping away collars and rendering lapels in XL size to restructure proportions as needed, infusing several garments and beefy bags with maximum storage capacity to grant post-pandemic travelers the perfect blend of comfort and storage.
On that note, several transforming pieces walk that line. One deep-pocketed vest can be shifted into a shoulder bag, boilersuits can be pinched at the waist to “tighten” them up, cargo trousers can be zipped and snapped into new and wild(er) shapes. It’s all part of Hed Mayner’s uncannily natty capsule wardrobe, one that sheds logos in favor of proportion play and balances adventurous outfits of yore with the comforts of the future.
“SS22 is a study of the terrain that runs both through and around us. … Mayner treats workwear with pragmatic vigor. The line is elongated – in Mayner’s way – but heavier. The gesture pressed into the clothes is brutal, like the craggy landscape around them. … More interior than exterior, a space to explore, his clothes are about telling stories: giving, moving, being.”
Dal Chodha on Hed Mayner Spring/Summer 2022
The trend of 2019 existed prior, during, and after its existence in Hed Mayner’s collections. Whether or not these reshaped jackets are of interest to the zeitgeist, they’re a permanent piece of Mayner’s menswear and perfectly encapsulate his brand.
Forget about the graphic tee — level up your basic game with some hefty weave. Now, few can manage a sweater — short-sleeved or not — in the heights of summer heat, but the textural weave and weight make layering in spring and even wearing alone in warmer climes feasible. Think of it as a natural extension of the sweater vest that has re-entered contemporary conversation.
Begone thrifted fisherman vests! Hed Mayner’s penchant for reclaimed military aspects has led to some truly exceptional bomber jackets and trench coats over the years, so his take on warm-weather layering pieces is typically tasteful. Executed plenty big and with ample pockets, the tufted hand of linen canvas contrasts against the cargo vest’s functional origins.