Inside Schiaparelli's RTW Debut

After it caused a stir with its use of fake animal heads at couture week earlier this year, Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2023 show in Paris arrived with high expectations.

In fact, its presentation on March 2 at the French capital’s fashion week was its first in the world of ready-to-wear, in a somewhat convoluted 97-year history existing exclusively in couture.

In short, Schiaparelli isn’t totally straightforward, but then again it isn’t that complicated either.

Founded in 1926 by Italian avant-garde designer Elsa Schiaparelli, the house went into liquidation in 1956 before it was revived in 2014 following an acquisition by Italian leather goods company Tod’s.

Now, under the guise of American artistic director Daniel Roseberry, Maison Schiaparelli is finally exploring the commercial-driven realm of RTW — and it’s starting with FW23.

Such is the very nature of RTW, things looked a little different from its viral “Inferno Couture” show from earlier this year, where fake animal heads adorned a slew of Schiaparelli styles worn by the likes of Kylie Jenner and Irina Shayk.

This time — with an aim of creating garments that not only look good but also sell — Roseberry’s Schiaparelli wanted to present “a 360 wardrobe for the Schiaparelli woman,” which, through an array of elevated understated quilted cardigans, cashmere balaclavas, and tailored calfskin suits, it certainly delivered.

Naturally, accessories and footwear played a big role in the show too, with a new Schiap baguette bag, golden-tipped boots, and chunky wellies offering major moments.

While Schiaparelli’s RTW debut won’t reach the virality of the memorable shows that came before it, it undeniably serves as an impressive starting block for a Schiaparelli future in the world of everyday garments.