This new phase, said Moncler chairman and CEO Remo Ruffini in a press release, will allow the brand to “interact, learn, think and create something that didn’t necessarily exist before. We will tap into new communities, creators and disruptors from the world of art, design, entertainment, sport, fashion and culture.”
On the floor, as I skirted around Justin and Hailey Bieber’s entourage, it was clear why Moncler wanted to expand the big tent of its down jacket carnival. “Everyone’s bringing something different to the table, and ultimately all of those colors are creating a beautiful painting,” said Salehe Bembury in an email following the event. In other words, Moncler wasn’t hosting the typical fashion week crowd: Rick Owens fanboys, easily spotted by their towering figures and tattered black clothing, rubbed shoulders with groups of teenagers who clearly seemed bemused by the fits—they were lining up to get prime spots for Alicia Keys. Near a stage commandeered by Mercedes, dudes in Formula 1 gear awaited the unveiling of a G-Wagon that was wearing a puffer jacket, complete with a zipper down the back of the trunk. (A slightly less conceptual version will be coming to an Erewhon parking lot near you later this year.) All potential Moncler customers, all breathing the same smoke machine-blasted air as the Biebers, as well as Lewis Hamilton, FKA Twigs, J. Balvin, and even a facemask-shrouded Leonardo DiCaprio.
Over at Bembury’s pavilion, gorped-out streetwear guys reigned. On a vibey red Martian beach, a group of models wore abstract-quilt down jackets and pants, and sporty fishtail parkas, the first ready-to-wear designed by the guy known for dosing Crocs with his wavy design language. Bembury, in his email, saluted Moncler for allowing him to “tell a story in totality head to toe,” and he didn’t skimp on rugged hiking sneakers with Gore-Tex branding down the sides—easy to imagine as his next viral footwear hit. On my way over to Pharrell’s structure, I got pulled into the Roc Nation by Jay-Z booth, where super-producer Mike Dean was doing marathon mixes of crowdsourced raps for a cool, insider crowd that included Jay’s buddy, the designer Rhuigi Villaseñor. There were no clothes in that space, either, and while the experience didn’t hint strongly at a direction for the eventual collection, which will arrive in December, it was, certainly, related to Ragazzi’s goal about creativity.
Jay-Z wasn’t in attendance, but Pharrell was, making the rounds in his diamond glasses and Moncler beanie. If anyone in the building had questions about his LV nod, all they needed to do was walk over to his space, which was absolutely besieged by crowds the entire night. But of course he’s popular—he’s Pharrell! For those who managed to get inside to the verdant campsite, a square of fresh-cut grass planted with trees straight out of Pandora, they would have discovered another reason for the crowds: he’s got incredible taste, and knows how to succinctly express it through clothing. On the grass, several models lounged in moss-covered chairs, wearing outdoor gear gussied up with Pharrell’s styling sauce: the bottom third of a pair of zip-off capris were slouched around a model’s hiking boots, binoculars around the neck of his shearling hoodie. Best of all: Pharrell himself has clearly opened a new chapter in his headwear journey with a moderately-tall beehive-shaped beanie.
