A spring style issue always gives me a sense of optimism. The thought of linen, cotton, silk and any of the other lightweight fabrics perfectly suited for the heat immediately brings a bounce to my step and sets the mind to the Italian Riviera, where I picture myself strolling from one glorious Amalfi pit stop to another.
Or the South of France, perhaps aboard a yacht, watching the beads of perspiration on my rosé trickle down the glass. (Neither reverie is likely to come true anytime soon, as my vacation venues are currently entirely chosen to best suit the changing fancies of my 5-year-old son, but whatever . . .)
Such sartorial musings bring me to the discovery of a new generation of excellent Savile Row tailors plying their trade . . . not on Savile Row. Allow me to elaborate with an example. A couple of years ago, I tried out a new tailor in London. I commissioned a suit in a heavy herringbone tweed, and the result was outstanding. So we did a linen one. Up till then I’d always thought there was little point having a linen jacket made, as I don’t want the strictures that canvasing and padding can bring—and, of course, after a few wears it’ll crease (elegantly so) to the extent where it won’t look as clean as a regular bespoke jacket anyway. Certainly the ones I’d had up to then bore that out. But I was wrong.
This suit was exemplary, as good as any I could get on the Row, and the compliments I received proved it. The firm responsible was Taillour, from East London, which you’ll find leading our roundup of five new sets of young entrepreneurs who have all trained with the best but have chosen to strike out on their own, away from the most famous street in fashion, in other parts of the UK capital. All are well worth checking out next time you’re there and in the market for almost anything—the range of what they can create between them is almost limitless.
Another must-read is our Field Notes column, “Confessions of a Bespoke Tailor.” After much hunting, I tracked down a veteran artisan who agreed to reveal the tales—anonymously—that he or she had amassed over a long career of making clothes. From naked fittings (the clients, not the tailor) to unfortunate accidents to poignant reflections on the human condition, it’s both shocking and revealing.
Still here? Good, as you also can’t miss our look at the growing trend of what we’ve termed Helipad Drama—that is, the rise of programs such as Succession and The White Lotus that focus on the lives of ultra-high-net-worth individuals. If you’re wondering how these recent series get so many of the details spot-on, it turns out they have a secret weapon: you. Yes, they have moles on the inside who provide the specifics that ensure these shows feel as authentic as possible. From the travel agents you use to the sommeliers, art curators and real estate agents you have on speed dial to the event planners, yacht brokers and private shoppers you consult regularly—nothing and nowhere is sacred these days, I’m afraid. In fact, some producers admit to reading this magazine for tips, too.
As ever, there’s a lot more to be discovered. Our Dream Machines focus this month is on sustainability, as we put three electric boats through their paces and look to the America’s Cup as a potential template for the future of boating. (Spoiler: It’s all about hydrogen.) We take a ride (sort of) in Mercedes’s bonkers concept car and are wowed by Porsche’s new Le Mans Daytona hybrid 963. Elsewhere, we explore Australia’s best dining destination you’ve never heard of, map how elite wine barrels come to be and reveal which European region is taking Ivy style to new heights. And if any of that turns up in a future season of Succession, you’ll know why.
Enjoy the issue.