Defined as the brand’s sportiest offering, the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer collection has been around for some years now, in various iterations. It includes a classic time-only watch, a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and even a skeleton cylindrical tourbillon edition. But whatever the complexity or the functions added to this all-terrain model, they have all been sized at 42.8mm so far. Quite large, and maybe not entirely in line with the current market expectations. But it’s about to change, as Moser launches new 40mm editions of the Pioneer Centre Seconds and Pioneer Tourbillon, both with a striking Arctic Blue dial.
There’s no denying the current trend for reduced diameters. Many brands are coming back to compactness and sub-40mm are not a rarity anymore. In fact, 37-38mm seems to be the new sweet spot for anything elegant, while 40mm comes back as the classic size for sports watches, after many years of oversized watches. H. Moser & Cie. is thus about to offer its all-terrain watch in a new size that will be able to please the current market trends, as well as offering something rather pleasant to a feminine audience too.
Technically speaking, the new Pioneer models remain very close to what we’ve come to know in the past. And the same goes for the design. The case, which is now measuring 40mm in diameter, for a height of 12mm (or 10.4mm without the domed crystal), retains an identical shape, with bold but short lugs, a rather thin polished bezel and recessed flanks with a striped texture. It combines brushed and polished finishing, and the reduction of the diameter doesn’t change anything to the robustness, since the watch remains water-resistant to 120m and keeps its screw-in crown and see-through caseback. And this goes either for the Centre Seconds or the Tourbillon model.
Of course, the perception of these new 40mm Moser Pioneer watches changes drastically on the wrist. We’re talking about almost 3mm less… Not neglectable. Compared to the classic 42.8mm version we’ve photographed here, the new case diameter feels more balanced and allows for more comfort on a daily basis, specifically for men with smaller wrists, or for women.
In addition to a new, smaller case, these new Pioneer models also introduce a new colour for the collection (which has been used in the Venturer watch previously), Arctic Blue. A striking mid-blue tone, with the brand’s signature fumé or gradient effect, it comes with applied polished and faceted markers as well as luminous leaf-shaped hands. To keep the look as minimalistic as possible, the logo is set in transparent lacquer, like a secret signature subtly revealed. The Pioneer Tourbillon Arctic Blue adds a wide opening at 6 o’clock, revealing the flying one-minute tourbillon.
Under the screwed back with see-through crystal are two in-house movements that we’ve seen already in the previous models from the collection. The Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue relies on the automatic calibre HMC 200 with pawl winding system, 3Hz frequency and 3-day power reserve. It’s finished with Moser double stripes and a dark-coated rotor. The Pioneer Tourbillon Arctic Blue relies on the in-house calibre HMC 804, again an automatic 3Hz movement with 72h power reserve. However, it uses a flying tourbillon with double hairspring and the finishing is more detailed, with an oscillating weight in 18k red gold, screwed gold chatons and an openworked bridge for the tourbillon.
Both new 40mm H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue & Pioneer Tourbillon Arctic Blue are available on a wide selection of straps – in alligator leather, rubber or textile – as well as a stainless steel bracelet. Launched as part of the permanent collection, the Pioneer Centre Seconds retails at CHF 12,900 (incl. taxes) and the Pioneer Tourbillon at CHF 49,900 (incl. taxes). For more details, please visit www.h-moser.com.
Technical specifications – H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue & Pioneer Tourbillon Arctic Blue
Case: 40mm diameter x 12mm height (crystal incl.) – stainless steel case, brushed with polished accents – domed sapphire crystal on top, see-through caseback – screw-in crown – 120m water-resistant
Dial: Arctic Blue fumé with sunburst pattern – H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer – applied markers, faceted and polished – luminous hour dots on inner flange – Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova
Movement: Centre Seconds: calibre HMC 200, in-house – automatic – 32mm x 5.5mm – 27 jewels – bi-directional pawl winding system – 21,600vph – Straumann hairspring – 3-day power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds
Tourbillon: Calibre HMC 804, in-house – automatic – 32mm x 5.5mm – 28 jewels – bi-directional pawl winding system – 21,600vph – double hairspring – 3-day power reserve – hours, minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon
Strap: Available on rubber, textile or leather strap, or steel bracelet
References: 3200-1217 – centre seconds
3804-1208 – tourbillon
Availability: Permanent collection
Price: CHF 12,900 – centre seconds
CHF 49,900 – tourbillon