hands-on-with-the-redesigned-2023-cartier-tank-francaise

Hands-On With The Redesigned 2023 Cartier Tank Francaise

An icon for over a century, the Cartier Tank requires little introduction. Among the countless versions of the model, the Tank Française was originally presented by the French brand in 1996 and has been one of the brand’s greatest commercial successes of the past decades. As 2023 kicks off, it is time for a revamp of this Tank-on-bracelet with a launch supported by a campaign directed by Guy Ritchie and featuring Catherine Deneuve and Rami Malek. To update an emblematic design without compromising it is always a delicate task. The exercise of reimagining a classic, retouching it in the details, is quite different from coming up with something totally new… And this is what we’ll discover with the new Cartier Tank Française collection.

Cartier Tank Francaise Watch 2023 Redesign Automatic large model stainless steel CRWSTA0067

Cartier Tank – an icon for over a century

The origins of the Tank go back to the beginning of the 20th century. During World War I, the quest for new forms led to the creation of this model with unparalleled style and trajectory. A resolutely modern and elegant design with a square face and an integrated strap held in between two straight parallel brancards. To give birth to this timeless model, Louis Cartier draw inspiration from the Renault Tank FT used by the French forces, in the later stages of World War I. If some Cartier watches with similar shapes were actually made by Cartier before Louis Renault began working on the concept, the watch is indeed named after the armoured vehicle.

Cartier vintage Tank Chinoise and normale

The Cartier Tank Transformed into a bracelet watch

Over the years, the Tank has demonstrated a unique ability to reinvent itself and stand the test of time. Countless variations of the original Tank concept have been created in multiple sizes, various shapes and in all possible proportions… its design has been stretched, curved and even distorted with the Asymétrique. 

Presented in 1996, the Cartier Tank Française is a Tank through-and-through. In many respects, it is as classic as it gets. Classic proportions, a dial with Roman numeral and a railroad minute track, paired with blued sword-shaped hands and a crown adorned with a blue cabochon. What transformed the stylistic features of the Tank Française to make it stand apart is its metal bracelet, seamlessly extending its brancards to form a continuity of lines, making it incredibly versatile and easy to wear. 

The transformation of the Tank into a bracelet watch was a stroke of genius from Alain-Dominique Perrin and a huge commercial success, in particular for the stainless steel models. The Cartier Tank Française was originally available in four different sizes in steel, steel and gold, gold and jewelled versions (some with leather straps). The SM and MM models were powered by quartz movements while the XL version was fitted with an automatic movement. Last, the XXL chronograph was based on the perpetual calendar-chronograph Chronoreflex quartz calibre. 

Cartier Tank Francaise Watch 2023 Redesign Automatic large model stainless steel CRWSTA0067

If they seem to be relatively similar at first glance, the old and the new Cartier Tank Française are actually quite different when looking at the details. Updating an emblematic and well-established design without compromising what makes it recognized by many is always a delicate exercise. If the new Tank Française retains its jewel/bracelet watch DNA, it has been modernized into a more radical, relatively speaking, and sportier version. The lines are more dynamic and more assertive than before. It feels overall more like a one-piece object than before, with more squarish corners, sleeker lines and more streamlined surfaces. 

Cartier Tank Francaise Watch 2023 Redesign Automatic large model stainless steel CRWSTA0067

The bracelet of the new Cartier Tank Française (a highly important element in this context) is more compact and the overall build feels more solid. As you can clearly see, the link that connects the bracelet to the watch-head has been entirely redesigned, with a simpler, better-integrated design than before. The crown has also been revamped, as it is now partially integrated into the caseband. Last, the overall satin-brushed finish of the case and bracelet, with much less polished surfaces than the previous generation of Tank Française, greatly contributes to this more contemporary personality and its sportier feel.

Cartier Tank Francaise Watch 2023 Redesign Automatic large model stainless steel CRWSTA0067

“The new Tank Française reflects a creative conviction. Like rediscovering the raw nature of a cut stone, it was about capturing the watch’s radical shape, simplifying its essential lines and stripping them of all embellishment to return to the myth’s origin.” Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier Jewellery and watchmaking creative Director.

Cartier Tank Francaise Watch 2023 Redesign Automatic large model stainless steel CRWSTA0067

Taking a look at the dial, it appears in classic Cartier style with some slight changes compared to the previous versions such as a different finish and lines in slight negative relief, framing the Roman numerals and the minute railtrack. The evolution isn’t as dramatic as for the case, however, there is more depth in the new version, thanks to these slightly recessed lines and more pronounced numerals – it seems that there is more depth in the printing than before. Also, all models in this 2023 collection have brushed dials (either radially or vertically brushed) and no stamped guilloche-like option is offered. 

Cartier Tank Francaise 2023 Collection

The New Range

The new Cartier Tank Française launches with a rather compact collection, in 3 different sizes, either in stainless steel or in yellow gold, with a total of 7 references.

Cartier Tank Francaise 2023 Collection

The Small Model (SM) is 25.7mm x 21.7mm x 6.8mm. The Medium Model (MM) model 32mm x 27mm x 7.1mm. Last, the Large Model (LM) is 36.7mm x 30.5mm x 10.1mm. If the SM and MM models feature high autonomy (8 years) quartz movements, the LM model is powered by the automatic calibre 1853. This small 17.20mm movement is based on the SW100, Sellita’s equivalent of the ETA2671. Contrary to the SM and MM, this large version comes with a date indication. It runs at 28,800 vibrations/hour and boasts 37 hours of power reserve when fully wound.

Cartier Tank Francaise 2023 Collection

The three different sizes are available in stainless steel. The SM and MM models are also available in yellow gold, and in yellow gold and diamonds. The large model is only available in stainless steel. The prices start at EUR 3,100 for the Cartier Tank Française Small Model in steel (quartz movement). The Automatic Large Model you can see in this article retails for EUR 4,850.

For more information, please visit cartier.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/2023-redesigned-cartier-tank-francaise-collection-hands-on-review-specs-price/

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