While most watch enthusiasts are familiar with Doxa‘s signature watch, the SUB 300 collection and its variations, there are more ranges from the brand that need a bit of explanation. We can name the more contemporary SUB 600T Collection, with its 1980s style. There’s also the more accessible SUB 200 lineup, slightly simpler and less hardcore. In 2020, Doxa introduced a diving chronograph based on this classic design, with a fairly imposing case. To stay in tune with the trend for smaller, more comfortable watches, the brand scales down the watch drastically, without comprising its capacities, by launching the new Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph II.
At first, the second-generation SUB 200 C-Graph feels like a restrained facelift, with a redesigned case, new bezel and updated dials. But the update is far more profound, and objectively, a very appreciable revision of what was a powerful and well-equipped watch, with an objectively oversized case. Indeed, this automatic diving chronograph measured no fewer than 45mm in diameter. It was equipped with flat-coloured dials, and a contrasting bezel. And everything has changed with the SUB 200 C-Graph II.
Basically, take the best elements of the old watch and make it a far more wearable model, without changing any of the diving specifications. That was the mission. The result; a watch that is now 42mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm. Yes, it’s still thick at 15.85mm, but that’s expected from an automatic diving chronograph. Despite the size reduction, it offers the same functionality and features as its larger 45mm sibling. This means a screw-down crown, a screwed back (with Doxa’s logo engraved), a domed sapphire crystal and a 200m water-resistance. The case also has been redesigned, with flat lugs and a polished side bevel, instead of the twisted lugs found on the larger first-gen model. The crown and pushers are still partially integrated into the caseband for protection.
Some updates are to be seen on the side of the bezel too. In order to make this collection more coherent with the rest of the watches, it now has the typical shark-tooth profile and the insert has been reworked too. On the 3 bright-coloured models – yellow, orange and turquoise – the insert is brushed steel, with a black, fully graduated diving scale. The black and dark blue models have a tone-on-tone brushed ceramic bezel insert, while the white/silver version can be ordered either with a white ceramic or a brushed steel insert.
As for its dial, the SUB 200 C-Graph II has also been updated. Mainly, the colours are now applied on a sunray-brushed base, instead of the flat surface we normally find on Doxa watches. It adds more playfulness and depth. For the rest, Doxa sticks to the same design as before, whether for the luminous markers or the hands – including the luminous hands of the chronograph counters. And the watch still has a cool tri-counter no-date display.
Inside the case, Doxa still relies on a Sellita SW510 base – a clone of the 7753. This robust automatic chronograph movement beats at 4Hz and stores up to 56 hours of power reserve. Finally, as often with its watches, Doxa leaves the choice between the signature stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet with folding clasp and diving extension, or an FKM rubber strap matching the colour of the dial.
Availability & Price
The Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph II Diving chronograph collection will be available from the brand’s website and retailers in April 2023. The prices range from EUR 2,850 to EUR 2,990 depending on the choice of colour/bezel and the type of bracelet. For more details, please visit doxawatches.com.
Technical specifications – Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph II
Case: 42mm diameter x 15.85mm height – 46mm length – stainless steel, brushed and polished – Unidirectional rotating bezel with brushed steel or coloured ceramic insert with 60-minute scale – domed sapphire crystal – screw-down crown, screwed back – 200m water-resistant
Dial: Sunray-finished – Available in the 6 colours of the collection – hands and markers with Super-LumiNova
Movement: automatic chronograph movement, based on Sellita SW-510 – 30mm x 7.90mm – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 48-hour power reserve – 27 jewels – hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with center seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour registers
Bracelet: Stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet, Folding clasp with wetsuit extension or FKM rubber strap, tone-on-tone colour-matched with the dial with steel buckle
Availability: permanent collection – available end of April 2023
Price: From EUR 2,850 to EUR 2,990